Hereis the view from the window of the Pilgrim Hostel in Vezelay just before we left (I had to stand behind the curtain as there were pilgrims still sleeping in the room). We were staying in this hostel with a small handful of other pilgrims. The building is ancient and very basic and is situated at the top of the hill very close to the Basilica.
Dugald and Betty stayed at the hostel by the campsite below the village. We walked back out past it after meeting up and getting ready for the long wet slog. Here is what Vezelay looks like as you head off to St Pere.
I think the landscape would have been more pleasing if it has been less overcast and wet but there were still many compensations including some chateaux and great variety in the rolling landscape. Even when it flattened out, the vistas included sights like this landmark monastery on top of a hill.
This was one of many hills but, thankfully, we were walking on dry roads, not on mud and through grass.
Alison’s Log, Camino Day 29 – Lundi 3/5/10 - Vezelay to Corbigny
We got up on time but still only made the 7.15 blessing – and it was more of a service than a blessing. Four other Camino pilgrims plus one going to Assissi – hymns, readings, prayers but good... Breakfasted on tea (hurray!) and Claudine’s spice cake – yum (Claudine put us up the night before Vezelay, watch out for postings of the earlier blogs).
Still almost 30 mins late for Dugald and Betty – partly because of the blessing service and partly because of the difficulty of packing while 4 people still slept in the room (is this the shape of things to come?).
Today’s walk has been great. Mainly paths and lots of ups and downs (quite steep in both directions) and it has been long – 37kms. Also it has been cold (glad I wore my black top) and rainy/damp.
Sadly, nothing was open on the way but we found shelter on the steps of a church yard for lunch and other places to pause for drinks or to change clothing. And, when we arrived (after 6 pm) the refugio not only existed but was welcoming (if cold). So we all showered and did some washing and then went out in search of food.
The refugio man recommended a pizzeria and we went in search of it. When we eventually found it – right at the other end of the town – it was closed for Monday! So we went back to the restaurant we saw first and had a lovely meal – if more expensive than planned. It was a restaurant in a hotel (Logis).
Now settling down in the dortoir – us and one other woman pilgrim (the other 4 pilgrims we met this morning are all going the Northern route....).
Notes
The refugio in Corbigny is in a convent school. There are two voluntary Hospitaliers who look after it (as with all refugios, these volunteers spend around 2 weeks in situ then another two take over. Ours were newly installed and made a mistake about the pizza place.
I was not amused at walking for so long just to find out that the pizza place was closed. Party, I was annoyed because my feet were very sore and I had left my flip-flops behind in the place before Vezelay so I was still wearing the boots that had been hurting my feet all day. I was also not happy because I am allergic to cheese and was wondering what I would be able to order that was sans fromage. We left for our dinner quite late and watched what had been possible cafes on our way out begin to close up as we made our return journey from our abortive pizza mission.
The hotel people nearly turned us away, too but I think they did a double take, took pity on us and took our money, too. As Betty sat down opposite me at the table she said, “I think a beer is in order now!” and I agreed wholeheartedly. It was a good beer, I am happy to report!
The refugio consisted of an office which connected to the hospitaliers’ sleeping quarters. We were signed in there and our Pilgrim Passports were stamped. Next to this was the “dining room” – a small room with a table and chairs, some sink and work surface space as part of the small kitchen and then, along a windowed corridor with the most uneven tiled floor I have encountered for a long time (I noticed because it hurt my feet so much) there was a small dormitory with three bunk beds, a couple of chairs and a small table. Next to this was a small shower and bath room area where we could clean ourselves and our clothes.
The new pilgrim who was already installed there had claimed the end bunk, had clothes hanging all around the place and was studiously snoozing in the bottom bunk. We worked around her.
You can check out the main places on the Google Map (and street view)at http://tiny.cc/crossandshell (Placemarks 80-83).
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